Backpacking Mill Mountain was by far my most enjoyable hiking and camping experience.  There was enough climbing at the start to make the hike challenging, and the campsite was the largest and most comfortable I had stayed in.  I highly recommend this hike for anyone looking for a picturesque backpacking experience not far from Northern Virginia.  Per  Below is a summary of the adventure.

Summary

Location: Mauertown, VA (coordinates to the parking lot below)

Duration & Length

• Day 1: 10.1 miles / 2,762 feet elevation gain in 7 hours 29 minutes (GPX Tracks avalailable below!)
• Day 2: 3.5 miles in 1 hour 54 minutes.  (GPX Tracks avalailable below!)

Gear

• 2 premade lunches (rice, beans, broccoli, chicken, peanuts)
• 14 eggs in egg briefcase
• 6 trail mix bars
• water filter + water bag
• winter sleeping bag
• hiking poles
• mattress

Highlights

• Vista from Big Schloss
• Fantastic large campsite at the top of the Mill Mountain. The largest I have ever been in!
• The trees were bare so the moonlight made its way through the night sky and illuminated the campsite. No need for headlamps!
• Cooking food and boiling water directly on the campfire – a first for me!

Link: https://www.hikingupward.com/GWNF/MillMountain/

Stats:

Starting Out

It had been a while since I did a backpacking trip. I was itching for it and I was stressed.  We picked this location because, based on reviews and proximity, it ended up being absolutely perfect for an overnight adventure (or even a dayhike) and I will certainly be returning.

Pulling into the parking lot was like cutting the tension in my mind. The sound of the river crashing on the rocks complimented the bird calls throughout the peaceful, cotton candy sky.  I was overcome with…ease.  All the difficulties of life had melted away at that moment.

Frame of Mind Dictates the Experience

The beginning of the trail was majestic. I was overcome with a feeling of joy and contentment because everything was perfect: the company, the location, and the weather were all in agreement.

I took solace in the fact that the trail was empty.  There is something visceral about being in nature surrounded by only wildlife.  I saw no one else on the trail and I really felt like I had the opportunity to unwind and experience the trail as it was truly meant to be experienced.  I was one with nature and in those moments I realized, like I do on all my excursions, just how tiny I am.  There are giant rocks everywhere that could pulverize me.  There are huge hills and tiring obstacles to overcome if I want to push on and finish the loop or even if I decide to turn back and quit early.  There are hawks that can soar through the open sky, bears that can climb trees and run faster than race horses, and even tiny rodents that can walk in straight line regardless of the landscape.  Yet here I am, unable to overcome the complexities of the terrain so much so that I must circumvent it, only to be taunted by the view of the open sky for the duration of my imprisonment.  I suppose it is this self-imprisonment that makes us different from wild animals.  This desire to be humbled is something only we seek, and an empty trail allows me to capture it and mold it to my will.

The Grand View – And My Reaction

By the time we reached the first intersection, I was ready for lunch #1, which was immediately followed by a 1.5 miles detour to the Big Schloss vista.

Mill Mountain, Lunch Spots

Mill Mountain – Big Schloss Intersection

We swung left to take the detour to witness one of the most scenic views in Virginia.  While I agree that the view is spectacular, this decision had a huge price: privacy.  The sheer amount of other people at Big Schloss made it a less than enjoyable experience for me.  On the particular day we went, there were at least 3 cub scout/boy scout troops that came along, along with other hikers from the area.  I actually ran into some climbers who were taking a break from training for half dome.

Typically, when I think of a scenery, I notably picture peace and calm within nature, not dispersed groups of individuals laughing and vaping.  It was quite odd, honestly, and it emanated a rather touristy odor.  It was perhaps reminiscent of something from a high school film, coupled with a family trip to an amusement park (there were several boy scout/cub scout troops visiting the area as well).  Because of this, my initial reaction upon leaving the summit was that it was not worth the detour.  I say this knowing that there is a sort of torment associated with having my seclusion interrupted.  As it were, it is never overrated when it comes to backpacking.  This is obviously more so a reflection of me or perhaps my reaction to a busy trail weekend, less so of Big Schloss itself.

Big Schloss Vista, 1

Big Schloss Vista, 2

This main attraction (or detour, as I prefer to call it) was more tiring than expected, particularly on the way back, but the exhaustion surely made the remainder of the adventure more enjoyable and rewarding. I think that climbing up the rocks with a heavy pack was especially rough on my feet.  After returning back from the vista, we stopped again at the lunch spot – this time, for lunch #2. At this point, I was really looking forward to making camp!

Making Camp

Before we made it to the campsite, we were on the top of Mill Mountain. It was glorious.  The air was open and fresh, and everything – from the texture of the grass, the taste of the sweet air, to the blue of the sky – reminded me of Dolly Sods.

Although there were plenty to choose from, we ended on the first campsite we stumbled across, which happened to be at the top of Mill Mountain. This was actually rather fateful.  You see, since we were less than 5 miles from completing the loop, part of me had decided to simply finish and head back to the car.  My partner in crime had a slick way of having me make up my own mind to stay at the campsite overnight, Inception-style.  The plan was to take a short snack break and use the restroom and head back – but as soon as I put my pack down and started to unwind, I saw it.  I saw the kitchen (fire ring and benches), the living room (lots of room surrounding the fire ring), the pantry (tall trees + bear bag, 150 feet away), the master bedroom (housing the 2-person tent), and the sunroom (the hammock!).  In that moment, it looked more comfortable to me than my childhood house.  It was perfect.

Mill Mountain, Master Bedroom and Sunroom! (tent and hammock)

Mill Mountain Campsite, Cooking Dinner

Mill Mountain Campsite, Dinner is Served

Mill Mountain Campsite, Thermometer. This is something I’ve never seen before – neat!With barely any cover from trees, we had a great view of the moonlit night.  This is the first time I did not need my headlamp to do chores at night.  The moonlight provided more light than a nightlight in a bedroom and everything was crystal clear to see.  Honestly, the dim blue light illuminating the area was surreal.  It was night and yet darkness was notably absent.  In its place, light.  So much so, in fact, that I could not see any stars in the night sky.

Finishing Up

The temperature dropped throughout the night, and the morning was particularly cold.  The wind howled and pierced through my clothing like an ice pick, but after warming up and getting my pack on, it was not bad at all.  The 4 miles to complete the loop would end up being nothing more than an enjoyable stroll, as we had suffered through the climb on Day 1.  The last mile or so of the hike was at the bottom of the valley.  The sound of the river crashing against the rocks provided a great closing tune for a wonderful weekend adventure.

Mill Mountain, Day 2, River near the end of the loop.