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Agenda
- Break camp and start hiking ASAP
- Head towards Abra Salkantay, taking breaks for food / snacks as needed
- Reach Abra Salkantay (the highest point on the hike) and celebrate!
- Hike down to Huarachmachay/Wayramachay and make camp
Breaking Camp
We got up at 3 AM and broke camp. The goal was to get a head start on the day, as Day 2 would be the day with the most elevation gain. We would need as much hiking time as possible in order to stay on schedule.
As usual, waking up in the middle of the night for early hiking was invigorating. Since we were on another continent, hiking to Machu Picchu, on the Salkantay Trail, it was even more magical. No phones, no emails, no work, no stress. Just one goal in mind: hiking the distance one step at a time.
A conversation area we passed in the morning
Flowing streams were a beautiful soundtrack to kick start the day. The sweet cold night air perked us up. Glowing eyes watched our every step. We were walking between large, visible mountains, beneath the starlight, with nothing but the trail in our midst.
By the time the sun started shining and we took off our headlamps, we were approaching the Seven Serpents.
Hiking The Seven Serpents
The Seven Serpents, as seen from above. © @NathiPenton
Did We Get Lost On Salkantay and Take The Wrong Trail?
Feeling Dejected on The Salkantay Trail
Physically Defeated
Suyroqocha, with Salkantay Mountain in the background. © @NathiPenton
Hiking To The Highest Point, Abra Salkantay
Abra Salkantay and Salkantay Mountain. © @NathiPenton
Hiking Down From Abra Salkantay To Huarachmachay/Wayramachay
The views as we began winding down were spectacular. To the left and right were lush, steep, green hills that met ridges. We had finished the summit far behind everyone else, so there was actually no one in sight. We felt entirely alone in the mountains of Peru, once again, but this time we could see miles ahead of us. And for miles in front of us, there was absolutely no one in sight. This level of isolation and oneness with nature gave me a profoundly humbling feeling.
Continuing on to Huarachmachay/Wayramachay from Abra Salkantay
Due to this, we were on the lookout for wildlife. Perhaps we would see a wild animal that is not native to our parts in the US. Would we see a mountain lion or cougar? The cougars hunt the mules at times, or so we heard, and we did find what appeared to be a leg bone on the trail. If at any point we saw a cat, we were certain we would not survive the encounter, but we kept our eyes peeled.
A bone we saw on the way to Huarachmachay/Wayramachay
Dealing With Unexpected Burdens
We passed porters twice, heading in the opposite direction, on horse. They mentioned that we were just about 20-30 minutes away from the rest area. Upon hearing this, we started to fly down the mountain with speed. It started gracefully but ended with a crash and burn that should have been foreseen.
First and foremost, it was nowhere near 30 minutes away. We had hiked for over an hour and the destination, visible during the entire trek down, seemed just as far as before. The remainder of the hike down from Abra Salkantay was treacherous.
Beneath us was an unforgiving bed of rock that ached our feet and toes from simply standing, the pain intensifying with each downward step. Our shoulders and back ached from our gear, and dehydration started to set in. We had no water. Our dehydration reached the point where we asked the last porter if he had any water we could sip (he had none to spare) – something I had never done before. It ended up being a long, painful, and steep haul to salvation.
Descent from Abra Salkantay to Huarachmachay/Wayramachay
Burdens Lifted!
Finally, we reached salvation! The rest area, which consisted of some empty shelter and a kiosk, was in view. I was delighted to see that they sold Powerade, and promptly purchased and chugged 6 bottles (about 4.5 liters) of the red and orange variety. My dehydrated body – too tired and still to even bend and sit down – began to loosen up.
I noticed plenty of construction at this part of the trail. With the growing popularity of the Salkantay Trail, local landowners were building lodges to accommodate the recent influx of tourists. As I replenished, I posited that the entire trail would be flooded with WiFi and lodging in 20 years. When that time comes, I will hardly recognize my voyage on Salkantay…
Camping At Huarachmachay
Day 2’s accommodation would be the front lawn of a ranch, surrounded by horses. This was actually a lodge which a tour group had reserved – the property owner was kind enough to allow us to pitch our tents out front. Once we set up camp, I immediately went to bed. I was too tired to eat, and in fact my body was still adjusting to the influx of fluids I gave it moments earlier. I fell asleep without eating and laid in the tent for probably 12 hours if not more.
I expected some amelioration in the altitude sickness I was experiencing since we had descended so much, but I eventually had to wake up at night to treat my migraine with 2 Advil liqui-gels (I staved off the migraines during each day of the trek with caffeine pills, resorting to Advil only at the onset of a migraine, which happened to be at night after the caffeine wore off). Interestingly enough, altitude sickness did not seem to hit me on the trail. As long as my body was moving and I was breathing fresh air, I felt no pain.
From the front of the lodge, we had a pleasurable view: ice-capped Salkantay and Humantay in the back, with dense trees and jungle-like foliage up ahead. Never before (or since) had I seen such a contract in nature. I felt tiny in a mountain range so vast that I only just began to comprehend it.
I was happy to continue on with the trail the next day but sad that my view of the two giants would forever be a memory.
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