Solo Hiking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu: Day 3, Wayramachay to Lucmabamba

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Main post
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4

Agenda

1. Break camp at a reasonable time (unlike yesterday!) and fuel up
2. Continue on the Salkantay Trail, heading towards Chullay
3. Reach Chullay and rest
4. Take a taxi from Chullay to Lucmabamba and make camp

Breaking Camp

Dehydrated and assaulted by migraines throughout the night, we awoke at sunrise the next morning to continue the trek. Although my body was battered and my mind was foggy, I knew that today’s trek would be less stressful on my body than the hikes on both Day 1 and Day 2. From here on out, we would end each day lower than we started. Knowing this made the journey on Day 3 mentally rejuvinating.

Hiking to Chullay

The toughest part of the trek was over, and today would no doubt be the easiest day of all. We would be hiking the shortest distance and would end up descending from start to end. Much like Day 1 and 2, the start of Day 3 was dry, cold, and arid:

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This quickly changed, as we left the mountainous climate behind us for greenery and humidity. The sun shined, the warmth spread, and the humidity started to seep in.

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The new climate also brought mosquitoes and other insects we didn’t have to worry about on Days 1 and 2. Bug repellent and sunscreen is recommended from here on out!

Decompressing in Chullay

There were a few uphills we were unprepared for during the trek to Chullay. Although keeping a good pace afforded us a reasonable arrival time at Chullay, we did need to rest at least a couple times, in the shade, during the hike. In total, I think we covered 5 miles or so.

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Here, we replenished our fluids and paid for WiFi (2 sol) to check in with loved ones. The cozy town also has baths, saunas, and massage areas if you are into that sorta thing, and you can buy quality handmade garments and fabrics from the locals. The quality is much higher than you’d find elsewhere in Peru, so definitely bring cash on your trek if you want to purchase an authentic scarf or throw!

Getting to Lucmabamba

The next stop after Chullay is Lucmabamba. This is actually where we spend the final night camping, before reaching Machu Picchu. You can either hike there or take a shuttle (for 20 sols per person). We opted to take the shuttle because I was actually feeling quite ill once again. I had not yet recovered from the altitude sickness and dehydration from the previous day, and would most likely not make it to Lucmabamba at a reasonable time.

I felt quite nauseous on the shuttle ride, so much so that I was unable to enjoy the scenic descent through rivers and waterfalls. But I hear the views were magnificent!

Picking a Tent Site

Once we arrived at Lucmabamba, we had to pick a spot to pitch our tent. Since we took the shuttle – and hence arrived sooner than others who opted to hike – we were able to pick the first spot in sight on the left. From the entrance to Lucmabamba, up the steps and immediately to the left is where we would pitch our tent:

Here is the view of the entrance and surrounding mountains, from our tent site:

This turned out to be very convenient for us, as there were restrooms a few feet away, and food options immediately behind us.

Although we camped, I will mention that others reserved proper lodging equipped with seating areas and showers. It seems that Lucmabamba is actually rather established, as further up in the small town was a hotel-esque lodge.

Espresso and Honey!

After picking our camping site, we moved towards the kitchen area (less than 10 feet behind us) where the locals offered us espresso and honey, both sourced directly from the apparent farm we were on! I’m not a coffee drinker myself, but this is actually the farm(s) that provides beans to Starbucks and so I enjoyed a cup while supporting the local economy. The honey, sourced from local bees, was superb.

Reflecting on the Salkantay Trek

I enjoyed sitting and drinking my espresso while looking over the lush greenery of the surrounding area and reflecting on the trip in my journal. Just one day earlier, I was hiking up a freezing mountain with no foliage, many thousands of feet higher than I was currently, and suddenly I was now in a humid rainforest surrounded by roaming chickens, moths, and plenty of other insects. I can’t believe that my adventure was already over. This would be my very last night of camping in Peru. After tomorrow’s hike, I would be in a hotel in Machu Picchu.

A Sleepless Night Before the Final Hike

We made camp at our previously claimed spot, enjoyed a heart meal, and got ready for bed. We would rise early on our final morning in order to make sure we could cover the long distance. While our packs would be the lightest since starting the trek, and we were not at our lowest altitude, we did not want to start Day 4 on a lag.

For the first time in 3 nights, I was unable to sleep. Not due to exhaustion or migraines, but perhaps due to the realization that our adventure was coming to an end. That, and possibly a few other explanations:

• There were critters running around our tent all night long – not sure if they were rats or some other small animal, but they kept us up.
• For the first time, it was extremely humid and the tent became a sauna.
• Mosquitoes/bugs may have gotten into our tent, as there were plenty.
• I didn’t use the restroom all night, because I forgot to pack my flamethrower: