Solo Hiking the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu: Day 4, Lucmabamba to Llactapata to Hidroelectrica

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Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4

Agenda

1. Break camp before daybreak
2. Trek up to Llactapata
3. Hike down to Hidroelectrica
4. Take the train up to Aguas Calientes and check into hotel

Breaking Camp

Excitement for today came in the form of several heavy realizations. Most importantly, today will mark the end of my longest trek to date. I am already feeling nostalgic about Day 1. The adrenaline rush of knowing that the hike is just beginning had faded, and I knew I was going to crash. Hard. Even months later, I will reminisce about the gleeful moment of finding the first campsite, and listening to the sounds of the stream under a moonlit night sky.

In the moment, however, I cannot wait for the trek to be completed. A huge part of me is grumpy and in agony, and knowing that I am on the victory lap gives me a much-needed boost of energy. After this, my adventures on Salkantay will be finished, and I cannot be happier.

Continuing on Salkantay For One Last Time

As indicated by this trail sign near our campsite in Lucmabamba, the trail continues on from here to Hidroelectrica, approximately 12 Km away. That is where we will finally rest our boots and take the train to Aguas Calientes.

The trail leads us from the campsites through the jungle, with coffee farms on either side of us. Surrounding us are cocoa crops, beautiful flowers, chickens, and hens. I think to myself how everything about this part of the trail contrasts sharply with the start of the trek, which was cold and barren. Experiencing extreme climate and terrain, on opposing ends of the spectrum, makes me feel magnificent. The thick air is clean and unadulterated. The wildlife is blooming. My heart is full.

Once in a Lifetime: Snacking with a View

The trek up is long and strenuous, but the relatively lower altitude makes it bearable. Rather than facing the difficulty of my legs not following their marching orders, I am now faced with a more familiar opponent who leaves them burning and me gasping for air. The humidity of the landscape, combined with the heat from the sun, is simmering. Each upward step brings us closer to the blazing sun, but it is worth it – we are rewarded with astonishing views throughout the hike. Finally, after reaching a rest area about 3/5 of the way up, we eat granadilla – my first ever – and enjoy the view. We are nestled near the top of a ridge, above a valley, overlooking cascading mountains from all directions. I cannot dream up a more serene view, and it is one that I will never forget.

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Hiking Up to Llactapata

After almost 1,000 more feet of climbing, we approach the historic site of Llactapata, hunching over and gasping, our bodies aching.

There is a crowd of other hikers who stopped to celebrate the completion of the final uphill. As they see us, they clap and give congratulations. We receive what feels like a standing ovation from the other hikers (who were hiking with daypacks). One of the most gratifying moments of the trek happens here, where one of their tour guides comes up to us and says that we “have [his] respect” for completing the trek by ourselves. In a few sentences, he validates our efforts as he tells us that he had to complete the trek with a full pack when he was training to become a Salkantay guide.

The atmosphere at Llactapata is joyous. Everyone is taking pictures of the mountainous views in the background, and we even stumble across some ancient ruins here. I am surprised that they are still standing!

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After continuing on, we come to a scenic view (and final rest area/restaurant, equipped with WiFi) before the final leg of the trek.

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The scene here seems manicured. The grass looks manufactured in typical golf course fashion, and the view is picturesque. Off in the distance, we see the Machu Picchu ruins – from the other side of the valley. The destination is in sight!

This is the tourist attraction that brings millions of people from all over the world. This is what everyone talks about. Throughout the Salkantay Trail, I knew that this was my destination. A sign of success, which now became tangible.

Hiking Down 62 Switchbacks

After resting and enjoying the view, it is time to complete the final portion of the trek: hiking down the day’s elevation gain (plus some) via 62 extremely steep and slippery switchbacks.

This takes longer and is more physically painful than I anticipated. The switchbacks are so steep, they make my joints buckle. The rocks and roots are slippery and at one point, I actually fall. It is important to note that the switchbacks are or appear to be, at certain points, actual ridges, making this truly a hair-raising descent. Particularly if you fall. Thankfully, the challenges of the joint-wearing downhill race are obscured by the views.

There are several refreshment huts along the way that sell beverages. We stop at one to drink fresh – really fresh, straight from the tree, actually – pineapple juice. This is much needed because the steepness of the descent is further encumbered by our exhaustion from the 2,500+ feet of climbing we did earlier in the day. I drink it all in a single swig.

Reaching Hidroelectrica

Finally, after many “you’re only 15 minutes away,” we reach the end. This is it! The trek is over! Once we cross the suspension bridge, we will simply follow the winding road up to the train station.

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The final walk to the train station is discomfiting. The trek is over, and we are in a sort of purgatory before joining the thousands of other tourists in Machu Picchu. I begin to reflect deeply on the trek during this somber promenade.

Looking up at the mountains makes me feel thankful for the experience. We were running around up there for 4 days! But at the moment, I cannot help but notice litter surrounding the river. At the moment, I have a negative opinion of the trip. To see needless filth contrasting so sharply against the natural backdrop of the past few days is sickening. I hope that sights unseen on the trail are not also littered with stowaway trash.

Once we arrive at the train station, we sign the log book and go a bit further to pay for our tickets. Luckily, we are able to get onto the next train. It arrives just before we buy our tickets, and departs shortly after we board!

Final Thoughts

Once we pick our seats and stow our packs, the train fills quickly with other tourists who either took a taxi to the train station, or who are already on the train from the previous stop. We are the only solo hikers in our car, but there are a few friendly faces from the trail as well. The journey is complete. Next stop is our hotel in Aguas Calientes. The following day, we will climb up Machu Picchu, see the ruins, and enjoy the town before taking a long train back to Cusco, a flight to Lima, and finally a flight back to the USA.

Looking back, the culmination of the journey at Machu Picchu is not what I cherish. The grueling trek itself was the pinnacle of my excitement. Those memories of tears, sweat, discomfort, agitation, and stress are what I cherish most. I only wish it were possible for me to appreciate those moments more, while they were happening. I complained so much on the trail while knowing full well that those would be the highlight of my trips. On my next trek, I will be sure to appreciate “the good times” even more, while I am in them.